Te Araroa, Day 1

Nov. 5, 2023, Cape Reinga to Te Paki Stream at ninety mile beach, 21,5 km (km 21,5)


This morning, I got a ride to the northernmost point of New Zealand: Cape Reinga. I was relieved to escape the hostel with its crowded and rather dirty dormitories. I was also pleased that I could finally begin.

Unexpectedly, X joined me for the ride. He planned to start the hike tomorrow and had planned to stay at a campground 5 km east of the Cape.

On the way up north, Dan, the driver, gave us some information about the area. We saw a lot of cows and learned that there are 10,000 acres with cows destined to become the beef in McDonald’s burgers. Additionally, there was a significant amount of avocado farming, potatoes, and oysters.

We arrived near the lighthouse at Cape Reinga, and at last, I could begin. Today, there would be a 16 km road walk, as the initial part of the coast was closed. Afterward, there would be a few kilometers on a dirt road to reach the Giant Sand Dunes, and from there, a walk in a small stream to get to the Ninety Mile Beach. 

I had been walking on the road for about 2.5 hours when X appeared. The trail to the campground he intended to stay at was also closed, so he had to start today as well. 

The road walk isn’t too bad, but I mostly enjoy the walk in the stream toward the beach. When we reach the beach, we find spots for our tents. The sand is very fine, and it takes me a while to get the tent set up. Before I fall into a deep sleep, I gaze at the countless stars in the sky. I am happy to finally be here.

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